Here
is the gang having just trekked back from the walk to the Old Man
of Hoy (below)and
looking quit pleased with themselves as well they should. From
left to right we have Meg, Pat, Marcel, Dave , Sabine, Bruce, Joy
and Anne.
The
trip began in the Grampians, near Aberdeen the heart of the
old Pictish Kingdom which flourished in the Dark Ages. Their monuments
can still be found dotting the landscape alongside the remains of
much earlier people. In the Neolithic period, four or five thousand
years ago, the early farmers built ceremonial centres known as Recumbent
Stone Circles. Above is Fearless Leader exorcising the demons from
a Pictish Stone in the kirk yard at Aberlemno (
left) and holding forth at Old Keig
stone circle (top right)
while the rest of the group makes their escape (bottom
right).
From
Aberdeen, we pushed north through Castle Country (and Whisky Country)
to Inverness and beyond. There are chambered tombs galore Clava
Cairns around Inverness and, further north in Caithness, the Grey
Cairns of Camster. Shown above is one of the Clava Cairns(upper
left) and the interior of Camster
Long Cairn (upper right).
Sabine is shown emerging from the latter (below
right). In Caithness, next door to
Donrobin Castle, we encountered our first broch Carn Liath (bottom
left).
The
crossing to Orkney was a calm one (the gods were on our side once
again) and we landed at St. Margaret's Hope to begin our week-long
sojourn. Orkney has a dense concentration of ancient monuments, unsurpassed
anywhere in Europe. Above , the group is shown at the Standing Stones
of Stenness (upper
left), one of two major stone circles
on the main island. Each is standing on a spot where there was originally
a stone. We also visited the Dwarfie Stane, a chambered tomb on the
island of Hoy (upper right).
The village at Skara Brae (bottom
right) is over 5000 years old.
Sabine
and Joy are exploring a tomb and Bruce enjoying his single malt at
the end of the day.
A
fulmer's eye view of the Brough of Birsay (above).
The island can only be reached at low tide (unless you have a boat)
and made an admirable headquarters for the earliest Vikings in Orkney.
The remains of their stone longhouses are clearly visible today. In
the foreground is Marwick Head and the island of Westray is on the
far horizon.
Above
(upper left)
is one of the Viking houses on the Brough of Birsay the semi-circular
"apsidal" end is typical of their longhouses. In Stromness
we encountered this quartet of young fiddlers (upper
right) outside the bank.
Orkney
is noted for a type of Iron Age fortification known as a broch. They
are all approximately 2000 years old (give or take a century or two).
Gurness (bottom left) is on Mainland Orkney while Mid Howe (bottom
right) is on the island of Rousay,
on the opposite shore of Eynhallow Sound. Marcel and Bruce are shown
inspecting the stonework.
From
Orkney, we took the winding road which leads along the north coast
to Durness (upper
left) before tuning south to Ullapool
(upper right)
where we caught the ferry to the Isle of Lewis. We visited the well-preserved
broch at Dun Carloway (bottom left
and in the title photo at the top of the page). The Standing Stones
of Calanais make an outstanding setting and, since we were staying
close by, we took the opportunity of visiting the site late one evening.
Here is Sabine (bottom right)
helping prop up one of the stones.
The
Standing Stones at Calanais (top
left) are definitely
the high point of any trip to the Outer Hebrides and here we see it
early in the day. The area around Calanais is dotted with isolated,
solitary stones and small stone circles such as the one shown here
(top right).
The church of Saint Clement at Rodel on Harris (middle
right) was built by
the Macleods of Dunvegan and Harris around 1500 and contains the tomb
of Alisdair Crotach, the 8th Chief of the MacLeods of Dunvegan. Lewis
and Harris are noted for their pristine beaches, such as this one
(bottom right)
on Bernera. Harris is particularly famous for its tweeds and young
Cameron is shown (bottom
left) at the loom.
Lewis
and Harris were followed by the Isle of Skye even by Scottish
standards, a beauty spot. We stayed in Portree (above),
a pretty little harbour town which is nicely situated for touring
the island.
Skye does not have the spectacular archaeology of the Orkneys or Outer
Hebrides although the fortified Iron Age site at Dun Beag (bottom
right) is superbly
located and commands a panoramic view of the Atlantic coast. Fortunately
Skye has many other attractions on offer. We spent one morning watching
a sheep dog demonstration (top
centre) at Bernisdale.
K. C. Mackinnon (top
right), who puts on
the show, has won many championships with his dogs. We also visited
the Talisker distillery for a tour that's Marcel with his duty-free
purchases (bottom
left).
Some of the group opted for a tour of Dunvegan Castle (top
left), hereditary
seat of the MacLeods for over 800 years. Others opted for a drive
in Waternish, stopping for lunch at the small village of Stein.
Leaving
Skye, we made the short ferry crossing from Armadale to Mallaig and
thence along the Road to the Isles
(centre) to Fort William.
From there we headed for Edinburgh by way of Glencoe
(bottom centre).
Edinburgh
Castle
We
enjoyed our stay in Edinburgh but it was sad to see the trip coming
to an end. We put on brave faces and had ourselves a bit of a party
with a bang up meal at Hendersons and a bit of a ceilidh back at the
hotel. Our host played the fiddle and his friend the accordian while
Meg and Marcel excercised their throat muscles.
The
trip was a memorable one for me the horn that came on and stuck
wwhenever I turned left; being on the sea again; the many wonderful,
musical evenings at the pub or under the big tent in Stornoway (Shooglenifty!);
and, most of all, the great company.
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