1.       Glenelg
2.       The Uists & Barra
3.       Kilmartin
4.       The Road North
5.       Orkney: Mainland
6.       Orkney: Heart of Neolithic Orkney
7.       Orkney: Rousay
8.       Orkney: Hoy
9.       Orkney: Sanday
10.     Orkney: Westray
11.      Orkney: Papa Westray
12.      Orkney: South Ronaldsay
13.      Northwest Highlands
14.      Inverness
15.      Edinburgh
 
Heading down to South Ronaldsay you cross the Churchill Barriers, a series of causeways linking the smaller islands along the way. The causeways were built during World War II to replace the blockships that had turned out to be so ineffectual at deterring the U-47. The barriers were built, in part, using Italian prisoners captured in North Africa in 1942. After Italy's surrender in 1943, the prisoners were technically free but getting them home again was a bit of a problem. To brighten up their surroundings the ‘prisoners’ were encouraged to brighten their surroundings by building paths, flower gardens, a theatre and a recreational centre. There was plenty of concrete and scrap metal to hand. All that was lacking was a proper chapel and this the prisoners soon built. Two Nissen huts were joined end-to-end and the interior was lined with painted plasterboard. The altar and the alter rail were made of surplus concrete. The work was supervised by Domenico Chiocchetti, a POW from Moena, who remained on the island to finish the chapel even when his fellow prisoners were released shortly before the end of the war.
 

The Italian Chapel

 

The Italian Chapel

 

The Italian Chapel. Statue of Saint George

 
The principal town on South Ronaldsay is St. Margaret's Hope, thought to be named after the Maid of Norway who died in Orkney on her way to marry Edward, Prince of Wales, in 1290. However, since that Margaret was never made a saint, it is more likely that the town was named after Margaret, the wife of Malcolm Canmore, who was. By the way ‘Hope’ is from the Old Norse Hjop (“bay”).
 

Saint Margaret's Hope

 

Saint Margaret's Hope

 

Saint Margaret's Hope

 
One of the most important archaeological sites in Orkney is the Tomb of the Eagles at Isbister on South Ronaldsay. The remains of well over three hundred individuals were interred here (and probably many more than that). The tomb gets its name from the fact that the remains of eight white-tailed eagles were also placed in the grave— undoubtedly the totem animal of the community that used the cairn.
 

Isbister. Tomb of the Eagles

 

Isbister. Interio of the Tomb of the Eagles

 
Nearby are the remains of a type of site known as a “burnt mound,” which consists of a large water tank made of stone slabs and a large quantity of fire-cracked and blackened rock. The usual interpretation is that the installation was used to cook large pieces of meat but something akin to the sweat lodge of the Iroquois and other North American tribes is quite possible too.
 

Isbister. Burnt Mound

 

Saint Margaret's Hope. Boats

 
We departed from the Hope early on a Saturday morning and steamed back across the Pentland Firth. One last look around and then below for a bacon roll and a cup of tea.
 

Saint Margaret's Hope

 

Needle Point from the ferry

 

Farewell Orkney

 
 
 

 

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Brochs of Scotland

Tomb of the Eagles

 

 

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